Djibouti, a small but vibrant country located in the Horn of Africa, is a melting pot of cultures, landscapes, and flavors. For international visitors, exploring the local cuisine is one of the best ways to understand the country's rich heritage. While Djibouti has influences from French, Somali, and Yemeni cooking, the traditional cuisine of the Afar people offers a unique and deeply authentic culinary experience.
If you are planning a trip and wondering what to eat in Djibouti, this guide will introduce you to the staples of Afar food, the culture surrounding it, and why trying these dishes should be on your travel itinerary.
Who Are the Afar People?
To understand the food, you first need to understand the people. The Afar are an indigenous ethnic group residing primarily in the Danakil region, which spans parts of Djibouti, Ethiopia, and Eritrea. Historically nomadic pastoralists, their lifestyle has heavily influenced their diet.
Living in one of the hottest and harshest environments on Earth, the Afar people rely on simple, hearty, and locally sourced ingredients. Their food is designed to provide sustained energy for long journeys and hard work under the desert sun.
Key Ingredients in Afar Cuisine
Because of their nomadic traditions and the arid climate, Afar cooking is not typically reliant on fresh vegetables or complex spice blends found in other African cuisines. Instead, it revolves around a few core elements:
Livestock: Meat is the cornerstone of the Afar diet. Goat, sheep, and camel are the primary sources of protein.
Dairy: Milk from camels and goats is consumed daily, both fresh and soured. It is also used to make butter (ghee).
Grains: Wheat and sorghum are essential for making bread, which is often the main component of a meal.
Dates: A vital source of sugar and quick energy, dates are a common snack and ingredient.
Must-Try Traditional Afar Dishes
When you visit Djibouti, seek out these traditional Afar foods to get a true taste of their culture:
1. Skoudehkaris (The National Dish)
While enjoyed by all communities in Djibouti, Skoudehkaris is a staple you must try. It is a hearty, one-pot dish similar to a stew or pilaf. It usually features rice cooked with tender pieces of lamb (though beef or chicken can be used) and tomatoes. It is mildly spiced with cardamom, cumin, and sometimes a hint of cinnamon, reflecting historical trade routes.
2. Fah-Fah (Djiboutian Soup)
Fah-fah is a classic Afar-style soup that is incredibly comforting. It is a simple, clear broth boiled for hours with goat meat, bone marrow, and sometimes a few root vegetables like potatoes or carrots if available. It is typically served with a side of flatbread or rice and is known for its restorative properties.
3. Laxoox (Canjeero)
Similar to the Ethiopian injera but usually thinner and slightly sweeter, laxoox (pronounced la-hooh) is a spongy, fermented flatbread. The Afar people eat it for breakfast, often drizzled with ghee (clarified butter) and honey, or use it to scoop up stews and soups later in the day.
4. Camel Meat
Camel meat is a delicacy and a very traditional part of the Afar diet. It is often reserved for special occasions, weddings, or welcoming honored guests. The meat is usually slow-roasted or stewed until it becomes incredibly tender. It has a rich, slightly gamey flavor that is unique to the region.
5. Maraq (Spiced Stew)
Maraq is a robust stew often made with goat or lamb. What makes the Afar version distinct is its simplicity, focusing on the quality of the meat and a few warming spices. It is almost always served with a large portion of rice or bread to soak up the flavorful broth.
The Culture of Afar Dining
In Afar culture, eating is a communal and hospitable act. Meals are typically shared from a large central platter. It is customary to eat with your right hand, using pieces of bread to scoop up meat and sauces.
Tea (Shaax) is an integral part of the dining experience and Afar hospitality. It is served strong, very sweet, and often infused with spices like cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon. You will likely be offered tea upon entering a home or sitting down for a meal.
Tips for Travelers Trying Afar Food
Embrace the Simplicity: Don't expect highly elaborate or heavily vegetable-based dishes. Afar food is about hearty sustenance.
Try the Camel Milk: If you have a slightly adventurous palate, try fresh or soured camel milk. It's a staple of the nomad diet and surprisingly refreshing.
Eat with Your Hands: To truly experience the culture, wash your hands and dive in, using bread as your utensil. (Remember, always use your right hand!).
Visit Local Markets: To see the ingredients firsthand, visit the central markets in Djibouti City or towns like Tadjoura.
Planning Your Trip to Djibouti
Exploring the culinary traditions of the Afar people is just one reason to visit Djibouti. From the otherworldly landscapes of Lac Assal to the incredible marine life in the Gulf of Tadjoura, it is a destination unlike any other.
Before you can taste the delicious Skoudehkaris or enjoy a cup of spiced tea, you need to ensure your travel documents are in order.
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